Antifreeze & Coolant

What does Antifreeze Coolant do and which should you use?

Making sure that you've got the correct antifreeze coolant in the right concentration is critical to the health and well-being of your engine.

The coolant capacity of modern systems is smaller and the operating temperatures and pressures higher, while greater use of lightweight materials such as aluminium increases the risk of corrosion.

As a rule of thumb, only about 28% of the thermal energy released by burning fuel in the engine is available for driving the car.

• About 7% is used to overcome friction in the engine, drive train, tires etc.
• Another 35% disappears out of the exhaust, and
• The remaining 30% has to be removed by the antifreeze coolant or the engine block would go into melt down.

Engines are constructed from several different metals and it's important to prevent corrosion and scale build up in the cooling system at normal operating temperatures. Around 60% of engine failures can be attributed to cooling system problems.

Antifreeze coolant is multi-functional and vital to the correct operation of the engine. A modern antifreeze coolant needs the following features:

• Corrosion prevention
• Excellent heat transfer
• Protection from freezing
• Prevention of scale build up
• Compatibility with hard water
• Stability at high temperature
• Compatibility with plastics and elastomers used in the engine
• Low foaming

Since around 1930 the necessary freeze protection and heat transfer has been provided by mixtures of water and ethylene glycol. This is available in large quantities from the petrochemical industry and has the added advantage of raising the boiling point of the mixture.

More recently propylene glycol has been introduced as a less hazardous alternative to ethylene glycol although this is much more expensive and some manufacturers have been reluctant to use it.

The important recent technical advances have been in the field of corrosion prevention, hard water compatibility and control of scale build up. Engine design has changed to improve fuel efficiency and lower emissions as well as reducing weight and costs. These demands have made engine operating conditions even more severe, so that much more is required from the cooling system.

The antifreeze coolant used at first fill is chosen by the vehicle manufacturer as the most suitable. Subsequent service top ups or renewals should use a product meeting the original specification so the vehicle warranty is not affected.

Beyond the warranty period, it is still best to follow the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation, however the antifreeze coolant used should at least meet minimum specifications such as BS6580:2010 or ASTM D 3306. These are national standards that provide a basic level of performance for cars and light vans.

The concentrate is diluted with water prior to use and to ensure adequate cooling system protection a concentration of between 40% and 50% (by volume) is recommended. It's important to remember that vehicle cooling systems are sealed and, under normal circumstances, should not need topping up. If the coolant level in the radiator expansion tank drops, the cooling system should be checked fully.

Developments in coolants have led to the introduction of Organic Acid Technology (OAT). The corrosion inhibitors in OAT products last much longer in service than those in traditional antifreeze and are usually only changed every 5 years.

In spite of improvements in the quality and life expectancy of the products there are many older vehicles which still use traditional antifreezes and these must be renewed every 20,000 mile or 2 years. These coolants are cheaper than the longer life technologies and, although they do not achieve the same corrosion protection performance at the higher temperatures generated in modern engine cooling systems, they should at least meet recognised national standards e.g. BS6580:2010 or ASTM D3306.

Water quality

Although tremendous progress has been made in improving the performance of modern day antifreeze/coolants there is still one factor that can reduce their effectiveness – the quality of the water used for dilution! High levels of calcium and magnesium in tap water, that cause furring of kettle heater elements, can also lead to deposits and scale build up in the engine cooling system. If you are in a hard water area it is advisable to use distilled or deionised water in the cooling system rather than tap water.

So to insure many long years of service from your vehicle, keep your car's cooling system in tip top shape.

Contact Fifth Gear Automotive to set up an appointment to stop by for a coolant flush and fill with the apropriate antifreeze coolant for your vehicle.

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The Importance of Brake Jobs

Avoid Catastophic Problems With A Regular Brake Job

Your vehicle carries some pretty valuable cargo. Let's talk about a major safety aspect of your car, the braking system. The braking system on most people's cars goes unnoticed since it is "out of sight, out of mind." That is, until a problem crops up, which is usually in the form of the proverbial grinding when you push the brake pedal. What are the most common signs you need a brake job?

Let's take a look at these warning signs in more detail.

Poor braking performance can occur for a few reasons:

1. Crystallized brake pads and/or shoes: The brakes have become hardened from heat and are no longer effective at grabbing and stopping the rotation of the brake drum or rotor. This condition usually occurs after the brakes have been overused, either because of excessive panic stops or "riding of the brake." The braking material must be soft enough to wear and grab hold of the drum or rotor to stop the car. Excessive overheating hardens the braking material and consequently, the brakes become ineffective.
2. Oil or grease soaked brakes can affect braking. Oil from the rear differential or front transaxle can get on the brakes from an oil seal that might have failed. Grease from a failed rubber boot on a front end component (such as a ball joint or tie rod) can find its way onto the brakes and cause this symptom as well.
3. Loss of power assist from the power brake booster is another cause of poor braking performance. It can occur due to a loss of engine vacuum, or deterioration of the vacuum brake booster diaphragm.
4. "Hot Spots" on the brake drums or rotors are hardened spots in the metal makeup of the drum or rotor that form from excessive overheating of the brakes. They resist the natural wear of the friction material (brake pads and shoes) that must take place during the braking process, consequently loss of braking power takes place. The pads and shoes have nothing to grip.

Squealing or grinding noises coming from the brakes: This is usually an indication of worn or glazed brake pads. The squealing noise comes from wear indicators, which come in contact with the brake rotor when the brake pads are worn to the point of needing replacement. This design "tells" you that it's time to check the brakes. Unfortunately, most people wait until they hear the grinding to get a brake job. This means that the brakes have ground through the wear indicators and into the rotors. If you hear squealing, get your brakes checked! Waiting for the grinding noise will cost you money! There are no wear indicators on the rear brakes. Have them checked every six months or when you have the tires rotated. NOT when you hear the grinding! Procrastination has financial consequences.

Pulling or Grabbing to One Side: This can happen for a number of reasons. Pulling can occur from maladjustment of the brakes, a frozen brake, brake fluid leakage, frozen emergency brake cables, or oil/grease leakage on the brake shoes or pads.

Loss of Brake Pedal: This condition is usually a result of brake fluid leakage due to failure of a brake hose or a rusted metal brake line, a worn wheel cylinder or brake caliper, or a worn master cylinder. A simple "once over" of the system will reveal what's going on.

Pulsation of the Brake Pedal: The cause of this condition is simply heat and wear. Heat and mechanical wear thin out the brake rotor or drum which causes warping. This warping translates into a pulsation (up and down motion) of the brake pedal while applying the brakes. In this case, re-machining or replacement is the answer. Make sure you have the brakes checked for wear if they are pulsating, because they are usually worn beyond their serviceable life when they get to this point and a brake job would be in order.

Clicking Noises During Braking: This has been a problem ever since disc brakes came on the scene. The disc brake pads are held in place by pressure from the caliper against the brake rotor. It's somewhat of a loose fit. The factory installs "anti-rattle" devices to stop movement of the brake pads, which will stop the clicking noise. These devices are made of spring steel. Over time they become brittle and break, allowing the brake pad to ride loosely in its seat, causing rattling and/or clicking during braking.

Excessive Drag During Acceleration: Ever feel like someone "threw the anchor out" during acceleration? Maybe it's because the emergency brake cables are frozen due to rust buildup and are not releasing. A simple way to avoid this is to use your emergency brake! Remember this very simple rule ... "If you don't use it, you loose it!"

Lit ABS Light: A plethora of cars with antilock brakes experience a lit ABS light. In this case, have the wiring harnesses and electrical plugs leading to the wheel speed sensors checked for wear and corrosion. These electrical components are subjected to environmental conditions. Consequently, they suffer wear from exposure and might need replacement or repair.

There you have it! Check your brakes every six months to avoid unpleasant surprises. High dollar brake work can be "head off at the pass" simply by keeping a watchful eye on your brakes.

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5 Winter Car Care Tips

As the holiday season approaches, it is easy to forget about giving your car the tender loving care it needs to stay healthy. But with the start of heavy snow, icy roads and cold weather, now is the time to prepare your car for cooler weather with these winter car care tips.

Cold weather makes pliable material stiffer and more brittle and can make fluids thicker. If you live an area with severe winter weather, you know how dangerous the roads can get and the unique problems winter weather can create for your car.

So before you start making that shopping list, look through our list of top 5 winter car care tips!

1. Take your car in for a tune-up If you haven't taken your car to the shop for a while, now is the time to do so. A tune-up will help keep your car running longer and may save you money by detecting potential problems early.
2. Check your Tires On slippery or icy roads, your tires are extremely important to giving you stability and controlled handling. So before the weather takes a turn for the worse, make sure to check your tires' pressure and wear. You can place a penny on its edge in a tread groove to test your tire's tread. If you can see the top of his hair or any of the tires background, it is time to replace your tires. Do this in several spots because tires don't wear evenly. You should also take your tires in to get rotated and properly balanced. If you're in an area with particularly severe winter weather, you should consider purchasing a set of snow tires which are made specifically for snowy and icy surfaces.
3. Check your Fluids Levels Make sure you check that the transmission, brake, power steering and windshield washer fluids and coolants are filled to proper levels. You should use de-icer windshield washer fluid which will help clear light ice and frost while preventing re-freezing.
4. Make a Winter Emergency Kit In addition to the emergency road kit you should already have in your car, it is a good idea to have a special winter car kit. This kit should include things like cat litter or sand for tire traction on snow and ice, an ice scraper and de-icing liquid.
5. Check your Air Filters During the summer and fall, contaminants can get caught in your air filters and will eventually get caught inside your vehicle and cause problems. If you see any debris caught on the filter, it's a good idea to get the filter replaced.

Follow these 5 winter car care tips and you will we well on your way to having a more pleasant cold season, and a car that will last through many more to come.

Click Here to schedule your winter car care.

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Info about tire rotation

There are many basics of car maintenance we all do regularly: check and change our oil, wash our car, check that we have air in our tires. Most people overlook the importance of tire rotations and the usefulness of this simple procedure. While each car and tire combination is different, basic maintenance of the tires can assist in making your vehicle perform at its best.

Tire Rotation Significance

Tire rotation is important due to tire wear. Tires work differently, depending on their location on your vehicle. Rotating them on a regular basis will even the wear, prolonging their lifespan. A criss-cross pattern is used when moving the tires to their new position allowing the tires to wear evenly.

Tire Rotation Time Frame

Every vehicle is different, but most manufacturers recommend that a tire rotation happens every 5,000 to 10,000 miles. Check with your owner’s manual for information specific to your vehicle.

Considerations

Doing a tire rotation is a simple procedure that can be done at our Fifth Gear Auto Repair Shop

Effects

Right-side tires have more exposure to curbs and other road hazards; a tire rotation to the other side of the vehicle prevents excessive outside wear. Front tires will show more wear if you are driving a front-drive vehicle. It is important to visually inspect your tires on a regular basis. Obvious signs of wear need immediate attention.

Benefits

Having your tire rotation done on a timely basis will help keep maintenance cost down on your vehicle. Evenly wearing through your tires will prolong their life and lessen the frequency of having to invest in a new set. Tires that are maintained well will keep you safer while driving.

Time For an Oil Change

How Important is an Oil Change?

An oil and filter change involves draining out the old motor oil and replacing it with fresh, new motor oil. The oil filter also gets replaced at the same time.

Should I get an oil change when it's recommended?

In general, yes. Changing your vehicle's oil is one of the most important things you can do to avoid bringing large bags of money to your mechanic later on.

However, there's a lot of controversy about exactly when engine oil gets old and how often it should be replaced with new oil. Because there are many factors at work — how you drive, the condition and age of the engine, the external environment you drive in, and stop-and-go versus highway driving — it's an inexact science. Owner's manual recommendations for when to get an oil change vary from 3,000 to 10,000 miles.

We recommend that you get an oil change every 5,000 miles. That's our best estimate. It may be too soon for many people and too late for a few, but for the vast majority, 5,000-mile oil changes will help your engine last to a ripe, old age.

You may want to consider getting an oil change more frequently if:

• You drive like a knucklehead: jackrabbit starts, heavy acceleration or high-speed driving
• You live where the climate is extremely hot or cold
• You often drive on dirt roads
• Your engine is old and burns oil
• You frequently carry heavy loads (several mothers-in-law or other cargo)

Why do I have to do this?

Oil undergoes thermal breakdown due to high operating temperature. When this occurs, the oil becomes less effective as a lubricant. And without a good lubricant (read: expensive), parts of the engine rub together and wear each other out.

Oil also contains additives that have the ability to neutralize acids. Over time, these additives get used up and stop being effective.

Finally, oil can absorb water, dust and combustion byproducts and also hold them in suspension. Eventually, the oil gets saturated with this stuff and can't absorb any more. Then that stuff remains in the engine and can cause corrosion.

What happens if I don't do this?

Your engine won't last as long as it could. Oil serves many crucial functions, and clean oil performs those functions better than dirty oil. Oil is relatively cheap, and changing your oil every 5,000 miles is a very cheap insurance policy against major repairs down the road.

Is there any maintenance required between intervals?

Yes, you need to check the oil level every few hundred miles. With your car parked on a level surface, remove the oil dipstick, clean it on your brother's best shirt and then reinsert it. Remove it again, and check the oil level.

Ideally, it should be right at the full mark. If it's at or below the add mark, that means you're a quart low and should add a quart of oil to the crankcase. If it's in between the two marks, you can add part of a quart to bring it up to the full mark (the distance between add and full represents a quart, so use that to estimate how much of a quart you need). Be aware, however, that since oil flows slowly when it is cool, the dipstick may not immediately reflect any oil you just added. So estimate the amount of oil you need based on your first dipstick reading, and then check it again later that day or the next day to be sure you're near the full mark.

A word of caution: Be careful not to overfill your car's crankcase with oil. If you put in too much oil, the engine's crankshaft can actually come in contact with the oil. And because the crankshaft is turning at several thousand revolutions per minute, it can quickly whip your oil into a froth — like the steamed milk that sits on the top of a cappuccino. Why is that bad? Well, the oil pump can't pump froth very well, and as a result, it can't get oil to the parts of the engine that need lubrication. The result ... a hefty boat payment to your mechanic.

If you are low on oil, you can add any grade of engine motor oil you like — though we advise you to use the grade of oil recommended in your owner's manual.

If you regularly run low on oil, be sure to report it to your mechanic. You may have a leak or may be burning oil — signs that you might be gearing up for a major boat payment to your mechanic.

Car Talk Tip: At some point, every engine starts to burn oil. Get in the habit of checking the oil from time to time, and you just might avoid having your engine melt down one day.

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