Facts About Car Alignment

While it's often referred to simply as an "alignment" or "car alignment," it's really complex suspension angles that are being measured and a variety of suspension components that are being adjusted. This makes a car alignment an important suspension-tuning tool that greatly influences the operation of the vehicle's tires.

Out-of-alignment conditions occur when the suspension and steering systems are not operating at their desired angles. Out-of-alignment conditions are most often caused by spring sag or suspension wear (ball joints, bushings, etc.) on an older vehicle. They can also be the result of an impact with a pothole or curb, or a change in vehicle ride height (lowered or raised) on any vehicle regardless of age.

Incorrect car alignment settings will usually result in more rapid tire wear. Therefore, car alignment should be checked whenever new tires or suspension components are installed, and any time unusual tire wear patterns appear. Car alignment should also be checked after the vehicle has encountered a major road hazard or curb.

Front-End, Thrust Angle and Four-Wheel Car Alignment

The different types of car alignments offered today are front-end, thrust angle, and four-wheel. During a front-end car alignment, only the front axle's angles are measured and adjusted. Front-end car alignments are fine for some vehicles featuring a solid rear axle, but confirming that the front tires are positioned directly in front of the rear tires is also important.

On a solid rear axle vehicle, this requires a thrust angle car alignment that allows the technician to confirm that all four wheels are "square" with each other. Thrust angle car alignments also identify vehicles that would "dog track" going down the road with the rear end offset from the front. If the thrust angle isn't zero on many solid rear axle vehicles, a trip to a frame straightening shop is required to return the rear axle to its original location.

On all vehicles with four-wheel independent suspensions, or front-wheel drive vehicles with adjustable rear suspensions, the appropriate alignment is a four-wheel car alignment. This procedure "squares" the vehicle like a thrust angle alignment, and also includes measuring and adjusting the rear axle angles as well as the front.

Not all vehicles are easily adjustable or fully adjustable. Some vehicles require aftermarket kits to allow sufficient adjustment to compensate for accident damage or the change in car alignment due to the installation of lowering springs.

When aligning a vehicle, it's appropriate for the vehicle to be carrying its "typical" load. This is important for drivers who continuously carry loads in their vehicles, such as sales representatives with samples or literature in the trunk. Additionally, when a vehicle is used for autocross or track events, some racers will sit in their car, or have the car alignment shop "ballast" their vehicle to include the influence of the driver's weight on the suspension angles.

Car Alignment Ranges

The vehicle manufacturers' car alignment specifications usually identify a "preferred" angle for camber, caster and toe (with preferred thrust angle always being zero). The manufacturers also provide the acceptable "minimum" and "maximum" angles for each specification. The minimum and maximum camber and caster specifications typically result in a range that remains within plus or minus 1-degree of the preferred angle.

If for whatever reason your vehicle can't reach within the acceptable range, replacing bent parts or an aftermarket car alignment kit will be required. Fortunately there is a kit for almost every popular vehicle due to the needs of body and frame shops doing crash repairs and driving enthusiasts tuning the suspensions on their cars.

Recommendations

An accurate wheel alignment is critical to balance the treadwear and performance a vehicle's tires deliver. Regular wheel alignments will usually save you as much in tire wear as they cost, and should be considered routine, preventative maintenance. Since there are "acceptable" ranges provided in the manufacturer's recommendations, the technician should be encouraged to align the vehicle to the preferred settings and not just within the range.

If you are a reserved driver, aligning your vehicle to the vehicle manufacturer's preferred settings is appropriate.

If you are an assertive driver who enjoys driving hard through the corners and expressway ramps, a performance car alignment is appropriate for you. A performance car alignment consists of using the vehicle manufacturer's range of alignment specifications to maximize the tires' performance. A performance car alignment calls for the manufacturer's maximum negative camber, maximum positive caster, and preferred toe settings. While remaining within the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations, these car alignment settings will maximize tire performance.

If you are a competition driver who frequently runs autocross, track or road race events, you'll typically want the maximum negative camber, maximum positive caster and most aggressive toe settings available from the car and permitted by the competition rules. If the rules permit, aftermarket camber plates and caster adjustments are good investments.

Many of today's car alignment machines are equipped with printouts that compare the "before" and "after" alignment angles with the manufacturers' specifications. Requesting a post alignment printout can help you confirm the thoroughness of the car alignment technician and preserve a record of your vehicle's intended settings in the case of an encounter with a suspension damaging road hazard.

Car Alignment Source Article

Antifreeze & Coolant

What does Antifreeze Coolant do and which should you use?

Making sure that you've got the correct antifreeze coolant in the right concentration is critical to the health and well-being of your engine.

The coolant capacity of modern systems is smaller and the operating temperatures and pressures higher, while greater use of lightweight materials such as aluminium increases the risk of corrosion.

As a rule of thumb, only about 28% of the thermal energy released by burning fuel in the engine is available for driving the car.

• About 7% is used to overcome friction in the engine, drive train, tires etc.
• Another 35% disappears out of the exhaust, and
• The remaining 30% has to be removed by the antifreeze coolant or the engine block would go into melt down.

Engines are constructed from several different metals and it's important to prevent corrosion and scale build up in the cooling system at normal operating temperatures. Around 60% of engine failures can be attributed to cooling system problems.

Antifreeze coolant is multi-functional and vital to the correct operation of the engine. A modern antifreeze coolant needs the following features:

• Corrosion prevention
• Excellent heat transfer
• Protection from freezing
• Prevention of scale build up
• Compatibility with hard water
• Stability at high temperature
• Compatibility with plastics and elastomers used in the engine
• Low foaming

Since around 1930 the necessary freeze protection and heat transfer has been provided by mixtures of water and ethylene glycol. This is available in large quantities from the petrochemical industry and has the added advantage of raising the boiling point of the mixture.

More recently propylene glycol has been introduced as a less hazardous alternative to ethylene glycol although this is much more expensive and some manufacturers have been reluctant to use it.

The important recent technical advances have been in the field of corrosion prevention, hard water compatibility and control of scale build up. Engine design has changed to improve fuel efficiency and lower emissions as well as reducing weight and costs. These demands have made engine operating conditions even more severe, so that much more is required from the cooling system.

The antifreeze coolant used at first fill is chosen by the vehicle manufacturer as the most suitable. Subsequent service top ups or renewals should use a product meeting the original specification so the vehicle warranty is not affected.

Beyond the warranty period, it is still best to follow the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation, however the antifreeze coolant used should at least meet minimum specifications such as BS6580:2010 or ASTM D 3306. These are national standards that provide a basic level of performance for cars and light vans.

The concentrate is diluted with water prior to use and to ensure adequate cooling system protection a concentration of between 40% and 50% (by volume) is recommended. It's important to remember that vehicle cooling systems are sealed and, under normal circumstances, should not need topping up. If the coolant level in the radiator expansion tank drops, the cooling system should be checked fully.

Developments in coolants have led to the introduction of Organic Acid Technology (OAT). The corrosion inhibitors in OAT products last much longer in service than those in traditional antifreeze and are usually only changed every 5 years.

In spite of improvements in the quality and life expectancy of the products there are many older vehicles which still use traditional antifreezes and these must be renewed every 20,000 mile or 2 years. These coolants are cheaper than the longer life technologies and, although they do not achieve the same corrosion protection performance at the higher temperatures generated in modern engine cooling systems, they should at least meet recognised national standards e.g. BS6580:2010 or ASTM D3306.

Water quality

Although tremendous progress has been made in improving the performance of modern day antifreeze/coolants there is still one factor that can reduce their effectiveness – the quality of the water used for dilution! High levels of calcium and magnesium in tap water, that cause furring of kettle heater elements, can also lead to deposits and scale build up in the engine cooling system. If you are in a hard water area it is advisable to use distilled or deionised water in the cooling system rather than tap water.

So to insure many long years of service from your vehicle, keep your car's cooling system in tip top shape.

Contact Fifth Gear Automotive to set up an appointment to stop by for a coolant flush and fill with the apropriate antifreeze coolant for your vehicle.

Source Article

The Importance of Brake Jobs

Avoid Catastophic Problems With A Regular Brake Job

Your vehicle carries some pretty valuable cargo. Let's talk about a major safety aspect of your car, the braking system. The braking system on most people's cars goes unnoticed since it is "out of sight, out of mind." That is, until a problem crops up, which is usually in the form of the proverbial grinding when you push the brake pedal. What are the most common signs you need a brake job?

Let's take a look at these warning signs in more detail.

Poor braking performance can occur for a few reasons:

1. Crystallized brake pads and/or shoes: The brakes have become hardened from heat and are no longer effective at grabbing and stopping the rotation of the brake drum or rotor. This condition usually occurs after the brakes have been overused, either because of excessive panic stops or "riding of the brake." The braking material must be soft enough to wear and grab hold of the drum or rotor to stop the car. Excessive overheating hardens the braking material and consequently, the brakes become ineffective.
2. Oil or grease soaked brakes can affect braking. Oil from the rear differential or front transaxle can get on the brakes from an oil seal that might have failed. Grease from a failed rubber boot on a front end component (such as a ball joint or tie rod) can find its way onto the brakes and cause this symptom as well.
3. Loss of power assist from the power brake booster is another cause of poor braking performance. It can occur due to a loss of engine vacuum, or deterioration of the vacuum brake booster diaphragm.
4. "Hot Spots" on the brake drums or rotors are hardened spots in the metal makeup of the drum or rotor that form from excessive overheating of the brakes. They resist the natural wear of the friction material (brake pads and shoes) that must take place during the braking process, consequently loss of braking power takes place. The pads and shoes have nothing to grip.

Squealing or grinding noises coming from the brakes: This is usually an indication of worn or glazed brake pads. The squealing noise comes from wear indicators, which come in contact with the brake rotor when the brake pads are worn to the point of needing replacement. This design "tells" you that it's time to check the brakes. Unfortunately, most people wait until they hear the grinding to get a brake job. This means that the brakes have ground through the wear indicators and into the rotors. If you hear squealing, get your brakes checked! Waiting for the grinding noise will cost you money! There are no wear indicators on the rear brakes. Have them checked every six months or when you have the tires rotated. NOT when you hear the grinding! Procrastination has financial consequences.

Pulling or Grabbing to One Side: This can happen for a number of reasons. Pulling can occur from maladjustment of the brakes, a frozen brake, brake fluid leakage, frozen emergency brake cables, or oil/grease leakage on the brake shoes or pads.

Loss of Brake Pedal: This condition is usually a result of brake fluid leakage due to failure of a brake hose or a rusted metal brake line, a worn wheel cylinder or brake caliper, or a worn master cylinder. A simple "once over" of the system will reveal what's going on.

Pulsation of the Brake Pedal: The cause of this condition is simply heat and wear. Heat and mechanical wear thin out the brake rotor or drum which causes warping. This warping translates into a pulsation (up and down motion) of the brake pedal while applying the brakes. In this case, re-machining or replacement is the answer. Make sure you have the brakes checked for wear if they are pulsating, because they are usually worn beyond their serviceable life when they get to this point and a brake job would be in order.

Clicking Noises During Braking: This has been a problem ever since disc brakes came on the scene. The disc brake pads are held in place by pressure from the caliper against the brake rotor. It's somewhat of a loose fit. The factory installs "anti-rattle" devices to stop movement of the brake pads, which will stop the clicking noise. These devices are made of spring steel. Over time they become brittle and break, allowing the brake pad to ride loosely in its seat, causing rattling and/or clicking during braking.

Excessive Drag During Acceleration: Ever feel like someone "threw the anchor out" during acceleration? Maybe it's because the emergency brake cables are frozen due to rust buildup and are not releasing. A simple way to avoid this is to use your emergency brake! Remember this very simple rule ... "If you don't use it, you loose it!"

Lit ABS Light: A plethora of cars with antilock brakes experience a lit ABS light. In this case, have the wiring harnesses and electrical plugs leading to the wheel speed sensors checked for wear and corrosion. These electrical components are subjected to environmental conditions. Consequently, they suffer wear from exposure and might need replacement or repair.

There you have it! Check your brakes every six months to avoid unpleasant surprises. High dollar brake work can be "head off at the pass" simply by keeping a watchful eye on your brakes.

Brake Job Source Article

Make Sure Your Car Battery is Ready or Winter Weather

A Simple car battery checkup can reduce chance of being stranded

When winter is on the way, it means more than just cold weather for your car battery.

A dead car battery in extreme cold can strand motorists and in some cases cause life-threatening situations. The best defense -- and safety measure -- is checking the car battery and keeping it sufficiently charged during winter, according to the experts at Exide Technologies, a global leader in lead acid batteries for automotive and marine applications, battery-powered vehicles, and computer & telecommunications networks.

If the car is difficult to start, get a load check on the battery, and if the power is marginal, it's probably time to get a new battery. This type of test can be performed quickly by your technician.

When buying a battery, the principal consideration should be power. Automotive batteries are ranked by two factors, starting power, called "cold cranking amps" (CCAs), which indicate the power available to start the engine, and reserve capacity (RC), the number of minutes the battery will operate essential accessories if the alternator fails.

The more electrical devices in the car, such as electronic fuel injection systems, electric windows, sun roofs and audio systems, the more power the battery should have. If the car will be exposed to extreme weather, either heat or cold, the best guarantee against failure is a battery with a high level of cold cranking amps, at least 550, depending on the type of engine in your vehicle.

Several tips for good auto and car battery maintenance to prepare for cold weather:

• Keep the car engine in good condition. Tune up and change the oil regularly. In cold weather, use multi-viscosity winter-grade oil.
• Watch for terminal corrosion on the battery and make sure the battery cables are tight.
• Ideally, park the car in a garage at night, providing some insulation against low temperatures, ice and snow.

Dont get stuck out in the cold this winter! Contact Fifth Gear Automotive, and get your car battery ready for the colder months ahead. Car Battery Source Article

Best Times for Brake Repair

when should I have brake repair done?

Brake repair is not something that can be postponed. If the braking mechanisms in a vehicle aren't functioning properly, driving the vehicle will put the driver, passengers and all other autos and property along the way at danger. In addition to reparations, it'salso very important to perform checkups and tune-ups. Want to know the most crucial times to take a look at wear-and-tear?

Here are some things to think about:

• When a motorist begins to hear a grinding metallic squeal every time the brakes are pushed, this is a warning that something is amiss. The pads could be worn out or there may simply be dirt lodged in the apparatus. Worn out pads could mean that the amount of friction required to stop a heavy vehicle isn't adequate. Lack of pads could lead to the inability to halt.
• Flashing lights are put there for a reason. That reason is to alert motorists that something needs to be fixed or maintained in their car. Ignoring those flashing dashboard lights will surely lead to trouble ahead.

Every automobile is different depending on the make, model and year. The owner's manual will have a maintenance schedule that is recommended for each particular vehicle. Adhering to it as closely as possible will keep the auto working properly, avoid the necessity for expensive tasks such as a brake repair and the warranties in force.

Especially if a person lives in a region that has extremely cold winters, it's important to service a car's brakes before snow, rain, sleet and ice set in. These devices have a hard enough time keeping up with the frigid whims of Mother Nature; make it easier for the brakes to do their job by having brake repair done regualrly.

When an individual or a family is about to hit the road for a vacation, it's important to make sure the brake pads, fluids and all other automotive systems are in tiptop shape. When a car breaks down in one's hometown, local mechanics are a known entity. If a mishap occurs in another state, city or town, it can turn a vacation getaway into a nightmare scenario. Don't take chances: take care of the car before a road trip.

If a motorist is used to driving in a flat area of the country, traveling through hilly or mountainous locations can come as a shock to one's system. In cities such as San Francisco, for example, one's brakes aren't just needed for stopping but for getting up a hill after a car has been stopped. Driving through hilly regions with bad brakes is an accident waiting to happen.

It's always wise to keep one's car, truck or SUV tuned up and in shipshape. Performing regular maintenance will increase longevity as well as improve functioning. The extremely important brake repair tasks must be tended to when squealing noises occur, when flashing lights appear on the dashboard, when the owner manual dictates, before vacations, winter or driving through mountains or hills.

Don't be a danger to others on the road. If their cars need brake repair should take their vehicle in to a shop they can trust.

Source Article

Time For an Oil Change

How Important is an Oil Change?

An oil and filter change involves draining out the old motor oil and replacing it with fresh, new motor oil. The oil filter also gets replaced at the same time.

Should I get an oil change when it's recommended?

In general, yes. Changing your vehicle's oil is one of the most important things you can do to avoid bringing large bags of money to your mechanic later on.

However, there's a lot of controversy about exactly when engine oil gets old and how often it should be replaced with new oil. Because there are many factors at work — how you drive, the condition and age of the engine, the external environment you drive in, and stop-and-go versus highway driving — it's an inexact science. Owner's manual recommendations for when to get an oil change vary from 3,000 to 10,000 miles.

We recommend that you get an oil change every 5,000 miles. That's our best estimate. It may be too soon for many people and too late for a few, but for the vast majority, 5,000-mile oil changes will help your engine last to a ripe, old age.

You may want to consider getting an oil change more frequently if:

• You drive like a knucklehead: jackrabbit starts, heavy acceleration or high-speed driving
• You live where the climate is extremely hot or cold
• You often drive on dirt roads
• Your engine is old and burns oil
• You frequently carry heavy loads (several mothers-in-law or other cargo)

Why do I have to do this?

Oil undergoes thermal breakdown due to high operating temperature. When this occurs, the oil becomes less effective as a lubricant. And without a good lubricant (read: expensive), parts of the engine rub together and wear each other out.

Oil also contains additives that have the ability to neutralize acids. Over time, these additives get used up and stop being effective.

Finally, oil can absorb water, dust and combustion byproducts and also hold them in suspension. Eventually, the oil gets saturated with this stuff and can't absorb any more. Then that stuff remains in the engine and can cause corrosion.

What happens if I don't do this?

Your engine won't last as long as it could. Oil serves many crucial functions, and clean oil performs those functions better than dirty oil. Oil is relatively cheap, and changing your oil every 5,000 miles is a very cheap insurance policy against major repairs down the road.

Is there any maintenance required between intervals?

Yes, you need to check the oil level every few hundred miles. With your car parked on a level surface, remove the oil dipstick, clean it on your brother's best shirt and then reinsert it. Remove it again, and check the oil level.

Ideally, it should be right at the full mark. If it's at or below the add mark, that means you're a quart low and should add a quart of oil to the crankcase. If it's in between the two marks, you can add part of a quart to bring it up to the full mark (the distance between add and full represents a quart, so use that to estimate how much of a quart you need). Be aware, however, that since oil flows slowly when it is cool, the dipstick may not immediately reflect any oil you just added. So estimate the amount of oil you need based on your first dipstick reading, and then check it again later that day or the next day to be sure you're near the full mark.

A word of caution: Be careful not to overfill your car's crankcase with oil. If you put in too much oil, the engine's crankshaft can actually come in contact with the oil. And because the crankshaft is turning at several thousand revolutions per minute, it can quickly whip your oil into a froth — like the steamed milk that sits on the top of a cappuccino. Why is that bad? Well, the oil pump can't pump froth very well, and as a result, it can't get oil to the parts of the engine that need lubrication. The result ... a hefty boat payment to your mechanic.

If you are low on oil, you can add any grade of engine motor oil you like — though we advise you to use the grade of oil recommended in your owner's manual.

If you regularly run low on oil, be sure to report it to your mechanic. You may have a leak or may be burning oil — signs that you might be gearing up for a major boat payment to your mechanic.

Car Talk Tip: At some point, every engine starts to burn oil. Get in the habit of checking the oil from time to time, and you just might avoid having your engine melt down one day.

Oil Change Source Article